Today’s average home has a plethora of connected devices. And all smart home products, such as laptops, smartphones, TVs, electronic door locks, and thermostats, require a solid, reliable networking infrastructure to function at their full potential.
Most home networks today are usually comprised of an Internet connection to the house, which links to a wireless router with which everything else—smartphones, smart light switches, surveillance cameras—communicates. This setup functions adequately when the only products connected to the router are laptops and Xbox gaming systems. Today, in many households these legacy devices have been joined by a new generation of connected devices, including media streamers, home automation hubs, cloud storage services, security systems, and other products which the industry has come to refer to as the “Internet of Things,” or “IoT.” As the number of IoT devices on a home network increases, it becomes increasingly more difficult for the network to function well. Problems such as buffering in video streams, latency in music streams, and signals that don’t reach their intended destinations can result. Thankfully, there are solutions:
Networking Help Tools
When setting up a network, you will be looking for throughput of data. This is the real-time effect of network speed in action. “LAN Speed Test” is a free utility for Mac and PC that will test wired or wireless throughput. It writes and reads a file from two points on your network and measures the resulting speed.
Wireless tools are useful for understanding your network’s wireless signal strength and interference from noise and congestion from other neighboring Wi-Fi networks sharing crowded radio bands. Depending on your computer platform these two free tools perform the same functions and work very well for determining the health of your wireless environment:
inSSIDer for PC
Netspot for Mac
Install a Good Wiring Backbone
A connected smart home generally starts with an incoming cable, fiber, or standard phone line (DSL). This wire connects to a modem and that connects to a router (or combined modem/router) which has Wi-Fi capability. Where that wire enters your home is important. If it comes in far from the central part of your house, like a deep corner of the basement or at the far end of a guest wing, latching on to that Wi-Fi signal is going to be difficult for devices located far from the router.
To solve this issue, leave the modem provided to you by your Internet Service Provider (ISP) where it is, place a router in a central spot, and connect the two with high-quality Ethernet cable.
For devices that stream HD video (as well as other smart home devices), nothing beats the communications reliability you’ll get from a wired connection between the devices and the router. This will involve fishing either Cat 5e or Cat 6 cabling to wall jacks in tech-heavy areas like a media room, home office, bedrooms, and a utility room where you might stow A/V and automation equipment. Terminating the wire to an Ethernet jack is straightforward. Match the wire colors to the jacks. Be sure to test the connection with an Ethernet cable tester. In areas where several smart home devices might exist, like a home theater, plan on plugging those components into an Ethernet Switch.
An Ethernet Switch is intended to work in tandem with a router by connecting multiple devices in the same vicinity to your home’s network, and is able pass traffic through as quickly as possible without too much interference. A gigabit switch, like the Netgear Prosafe GS108, when used with a gigabit router will allow you to use your local network at speeds up to ten times greater than the previous generation (10/100 Mbps Fast Ethernet). If either of these components, however, is not gigabit rated, the entire network will be limited to 10/100 speeds. So, in order to use the maximum amount of speed your network can pump out, you need every single component in your network (including your computers) to be gigabit compliant.
If you are building a new home you should plan on running at least two Cat 6 cables to each Ethernet jack (one for the network and one for future use). Locate these Cat 6 cables in places where you plan on putting your TVs, computers, security cameras, and other devices. And if you plan on adding a home control system, pull a Cat 6 cable to the wall light switch locations, as well. Should you ever replace these light switches with home control keypads, they can be easily wired into the network. Each run of cable is then “homerun” back to a central point, usually in an attic, basement, or garage. Here you generally will locate your router in a rack along with network switches and other gear. Plan to spend between $100 and $150 per cable drop. For a finished home, fishing cabling will be more labor intensive, and therefore, more expensive: between $150 and $500 per cable drop.
Think of your home’s network like a highway system.
A wired network is a multilane highway. Multiple cars can have their own lane and travel at the speeds they want without impacting others. Not so with Wi-Fi. It’s like a two-lane highway. The slowest device dictates the speed of all the others. Invest in a router that supports both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Having the second band (5GHz) helps as it gives you two additional lanes. Also available are routers with two 5GHz bands so you can have a total of four lanes in the 5GHz space.
Getting Better Wi-Fi Coverage
Today the most common Wi-Fi standard (third-generation) is 802.11n, which has a maximum speed of 450Mbps (megabits per second). The newest deployed standard is 802.11ac. It has a maximum speed of 1.7Gbps (gigabits per second). The good news is the ac standard is backwards compatible, which means that the devices you currently own (which most likely are n) will work with the newer ac-based wireless routers.
Additionally, Wi-Fi works on two different wireless radio-frequency bands. The most common is 2.4GHz (gigahertz), and the newer and much less crowded is 5GHz. People who live in congested areas, like cities or neighborhoods, will certainly experience interference when using a 2.4GHz router, so be sure to invest in a dual-band model, which supports both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Routers that support 802.11ac are even better.
However, even the best router won’t ensure adequate Wi-Fi coverage, so in many homes it helps to add range extenders (often called repeaters, although they don’t actually repeat) and access points. Range extenders connect to your home’s network and then broadcast a new signal with a slightly different network name (often they add “EXT” to your existing SSID). This will allow you to connect to the web, and stream video or audio to new rooms of the house that your existing wireless signal can’t reach. Range extenders should be placed where a moderately strong Wi-Fi signal already exists to ensure that they can lock onto Wi-Fi and provide a stable extension.
Also consider adding: A Network Bridge
Multiple Ethernet ports are built into some range extenders and access points. On range extenders these ports can connect non-wireless devices to your network. This is called a Bridge. Network Bridges can also be purchased separately for the sole purpose of connecting a non-wireless device to your network.
Access points connect to your home’s wired network, thus negating the performance issues of range extenders. They can be set to the same SSID as your main network and can provide a seamless roaming experience. Multiple access points can be added, even outdoors (be sure to look for weatherproof models). This is the preferred way to extend a network.
Know Your Limitations
Be mindful of Wi-Fi limitations and understand that the more smart devices you add to a wireless network, the more bandwidth will be used. You can beef up the bandwidth with a high-quality router and complementing it with range extenders and/or access points. Still, Wi-Fi can be finicky so, whenever possible, connect your home’s smart devices via a wired network. Depending on your home, you might not be able to fish wire to every device, but this could still help lighten the load of your wireless network and enable it to function more reliably. EH
Bob Silver is an independent home media convergence consultant. By working with user forums and technology publications, Bob provides new technology insights, product reviews, and configuration recommendations for users seeking high-performance home media networks.
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Steve T says
Great article. I was surprised there was no discussion of Power Line Communications (PLC ) that’s used frequently instead of Cat6e drops in existing homes to cut down on WiFi traffic. Also, I’m seeing problems with 802.11ac ‘wide-band’ where the AP is using a larger slice of spectrum and interfering with other devices that use 2.4 for RF…like Sonos. https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/255/kw/802.11ac/session/L3RpbWUvMTQ0OTE2MDkzOC9zaWQvdjNCWE4yRG0%3D
jonp says
This article is full of errors.
Terminating the wire to an Ethernet jack is straightforward.
Terminating the wire might sound straightforward, but not exactly simple, especially if you’re trying to meet the Cat6 standards. Are you terminating to 568A or 568B on both ends? If you don’t know what you’re doing, have someone that does do this work.
If either of these components (switch or router), however, is not gigabit rated, the entire network will be limited to 10/100 speeds. So, in order to use the maximum amount of speed your network can pump out, you need every single component in your network (including your computers) to be gigabit compliant.
This is not correct. First – you’re confusing multiple things together in this article. A router is different from a switch. Most consumer appliances are combinations of a router, switch, and WiFi access point.
A router doesn’t need to be gigabit rated, unless the Internet connection is over 100Mb, which at this point in time is relatively rare.
A computer operating at 10Mb will not impact the speed of any other device, since everything is connected to a switch. The switch allows communication between devices operating at different speeds.
For all intents and purposes, if most of the traffic is out to the Internet, everything could operate at relatively low speeds. If you have a lot of traffic that stays within the house, you might need higher speeds.
For example, I live in Comcast hell and have guaranteed speeds of 16Mb down, 2Mb up, with boost. To support high speed backups on the network, we run at up to 1000Mb, but most people don’t need that. The devices communicating at low speeds (10Mb) have no impact on the high speed devices (NAS with dual 1000Mb connections).
Trae D says
I have to agree that there are a few things in here that I would have worded differently, but I think the general concept was achieved. Things in a modern network can be quite complicated and the homeowner / small business owner needs to take that into consideration as they add things to their network. I’d like to see more articles about these types of things from EH in the future because this topic is only become more and more viable as the “Internet-of-Things” continues to grow.
Rob Gelphman says
I have to weigh in and argue that this article is not complete. in addition to the lack of reference to power line as a viable medium in a home network, there is no acknowledgement of coaxial cabling. Both mediums are already installed. The former is ubiquitous with outlets in every room. Coax outlets are not as prevalent but outlets are found where you watch TV and it was originally designed for video.
Installing cat5/6 is indeed possible and provides the bandwidth and reliability of coax but it is not pre-installed in most homes.
MoCA technology runs over the coax and is integrated into set top boxes and gateways by just about every pay TV operator in the country.
TiVO integrates MoCA into their DVRs and Actiontec offers a wireless extender integrating Wi-Fi AC and MoCA 2.0.
Focusing on cat5/6 as the only wired alternative is obviously a biased perspective and does not contribute to the body of knowledge and does not fully inform end users.
Wireless is the constant but with the proliferation of portable devices and increase in video consumption to every device all the time, and the wave of IoT, bandwidth and reliability are acute issues that need resolution immediately.
Educate. Inform, Engage.
Jessica says
IThis article outlines the issues of Wi-Fi, implying that a cabled system is the only alternative. What about wireless (non-cabled) protocols that do not operate on Wi-Fi, like Z-Wave and Zigbee? These protocols operate through a mesh network that strengthens as the system becomes larger. The mesh also means that devices do NOT have to ping all the way back to the hub and/or router.
Rachel says
It’s a good idea to remember that there are some smart devices that you might want to connect with a wired connection. I’ll keep that in mind. Thank you for sharing!
Maggie Allen says
To be honest, I don’t even think I could tell you the difference between Ethernet, fiber, and phone lines. I think I’d be much more comfortable letting a professional installing the backbone for me. I’d much rather let a professional handle this stuff for me so that I don’t accidentally break anything.
Steven Janz says
So agree with all the technical issues brought up by other comments. However I appreciate the point of the article which is to educate the average consumer all the way up to the more advanced DIYer on the importance of a good network foundation.
A couple more things I might “adjust in the article…
(1) Instead of “matching the wire colors” look at what the manufacturer spec is for network wiring. It will be either TIA/EIA 568A or 568B. THEN, you can match the wires with the colors you see on a let of Cat 5e and Cat 6 jacks at Home Depot, Lowe’s and the like
(2) On the ethernet switch, make sure you buy an “unmanaged” switch. Leave the managed switches for your Home Automation or IT Pro unless you really know what you are doing from a network standpoint.
(3) Don’t wire a Cat cable to a lighting outlet where line voltage will be present– it is against electrical code to combine low voltage (lighting keypad) and line voltage (switch/dimmer) devices in the same box. Install a combo low/line votage box it you think you might want a lighting system in the future. Also, you are better off using Cressnet or Control Yellow cable at this location than Cat 5e or Cat 6.
(4) Although Range Extenders are becoming more reliable recently, Wireless Access point with a wired backbone between each WAP and the router is generally the best way to have Wifi through your home.
One thing that is not mentioned in the article is that not only is it important to have a good network for your home automation system, but it is also important to maintain and optimize that network over time to make sure everything is running smoothly. If you don’t feel capable of doing this yourself, a service plan to maintain your network is a good idea. I actually discuss the Advantages and Disadvantages of service plans for home automation systems in more detail here for anyone who is interested:
https://www.technospeakco.com/really-need-service-plan-home-automation-system-los-angeles/
Thanks for the article!
Mitch says
Yes! Nailed it Steven. It is against code to combine Line and low without an approved box with divider. I have run 2 cat 5s/ 1 RG6/ 1 Cat 6 to each Tv. I have Run 2 Cat 5es to each Tel/Data Jack. Do you think I need to go Cat 6 all the way around?
Very helpful article and very helpful comment btw.
SALIFOU says
Tank for your explanation!!! . I want to know, the electronics and electrics devices used to build domestic network please!!! “l
Joel says
I used my existing Cat5E wiring left behind by the telephone company for my Ethernet wired home. Every room has Ethernet with smart switches and I’m thrilled by the results. No more stupid dropouts or slow Wi-Fi.
Tina says
Thanks for sharing useful information. Wifi is good idea for smart home but I think it can not give high speed as wired connection. I am working from home so I need high speed internet.
LAN is the best option for high speed internet.
Bethel Smith says
Thank you for your suggestions on how to improve your wifi network. We are currently looking for a new system to build in our house and want it to be as high-speed as possible. I will be sure to follow your tip and invest in high-quality routers since one bad router can hurt the rest. Once we make our decision on a new system, we will be sure to find a company to help us with installation and the wifi design so that it runs at maximum efficiency.
jhon says
your article is too good thanks for sharing the valuable information I am a student of computer science background so networking is one of our course subjects. It’s very interesting things you post when I read your post I grave more knowledge it helps me a lot.
Network technology is based on the topology there is a different type of topology are used to build the network connection.your article really helpful we are having quite a knowledge about network thanks to the opportunity to learn new things.
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