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“The color calibration can save on your display’s energy consumption and extends the life of your TV,” says David J. Weinberg, an engineering consultant and technical expert on audio, video and film technology. “Spyder and other computer or Internet based video analyzers are for those who need a scientific way beyond the self help DVDs, that can calculate the correct adjustments to brightness, contrast, color, tint and temperature.”
Shareware
Shareware programs offer an even cheaper alternative to True RTA and Spyder. These programs are written (usually) by industry professionals who ask as little as $10 for the downloadable software. You can even run a fully featured program several times on a free trial.
The following sites offer a wide range of audio-video productivity software:
Both with the True RTA System and shareware, you simply run the software program and either use a mic to “hear” the audio and/or directly connect your notebook PC via USB to a Internet connection on the audio equipment. The Spyder System connects to your TV via a suction cup and/or USB port. Then you use your PC and Spyder software to read the lighting and color results, and then adjust your TV set or PC-TV monitor accordingly.
Built-in Analysis
Denon’s Jeff Talmedge, who holds the highest certifications in both audio and video engineering, reminds us that many high-end audio systems come with built-in analyzers. “Many of our components and systems come with Audyssey, which we think is the best room calibration system. And it’s easy to run right out of the box.”
But Talmedge warns customers that by changing a room’s layout, paint, adding or subtracting carpets, rugs and wall coverings, you are unlikely to recreate the ambiance from your audio.
He too supports the latest in computer based add-ons (in addition to his company’s built-in analyzers) to re-create your favorite audio feeling. “Many of our systems which connect to the Internet can run third party software that can tune and adjust, and our models that don’t have Internet access can still be worked on using a notebook computer and a decent Behringer type mic.”
Conclusion
How did Diane make out in her the rearranging of her living room and den? Using the True RTA system, some simple shareware, a mic to realign her speakers and the Audyssey feature in her Denon receiver, she’s close to recreating the terrific experience in her living room and den. And with the help of shareware and exchanging her Cablevision set-top box, her home theater experience in the smaller den is better than ever.
For the record, Diane did not have to do anything to her ION deluxe digital turntable. “The LPs and 45s and 78s sound the same as they always did no matter what is connected to the turntable and, when I burn the albums, I have saved them permanently for posterity.”
Related articles:
Adventures in Home Theater Calibration
What is the Best Way to Calibrate my 5.1 Sound System for Movies?
Coming Soon: Self Calibrating Home Theaters
Seems everyone missed one big issue here. Calibrating any display with a computer (or any source really), is only a calibration for that one input type using that 1 source type. Meaning that if you use the VGA DB15 connection on a display and calibrate using the computer. That is all you have calibrated. It will not be a calibration for your DVD or PS3 via HDMI. Nor even a calibration for a laptop plugged into the same VGA port you just calibrated with another computer. And even if you used the computer via HDMI, it would still not be a calibration for the PS3 or DVD player via HDMI. I use computer calibration tools, sure. And it’s great for the fact that I keep the same computer on each display such as DLP front projectors, LCD monitors, LCD TVs, etc. But even though I use the HDMI for the PS3, DVD player and PC, the same PC calibration is not ideal for my other 2 sources. Luckily I can save at several presets on the display for each source, even though it’s on the same HDMI port. People should be aware that simply using your computer to calibrate a display is only good for that source computer and display via that input.
Dude, come into the 21st century. Data color doesn’t even support that software anymore. The only software on the market to consider is CalMAN.
It’s what all the serious pros have switched over to use on their expensive equipment, but the company that makes it designed it to be used by the do it yourselfer, as well. Spyders can’t be trusted, as they aren’t tested off the assembly line.
If you can’t afford an NIST certified meter - go with X-rite’s i1 Display 2, since everyone is tested before it’s shipped.
SpyderTV for a picture “as the director intended”? Not even close! Did you test it before recommending?
I didn’t find anything of value at the download websites mentioned in the article. I can do better by eye than the Spyder, using something like the Avia DVD kit.
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1. Calibration is kind of a rip-off. Every source is different, so what the heck is one supposed to calibrate against? Seems the only thing calibration gets you is a good view of how far off any given source is. As to sound calibartion, how did the lady in the story get it “right” in the first place?
If she’s sensitive enough to notice a difference in wall paint (come on!) then she should have left her (imagined) perfect room alone….
The transducer (optical or microphone) needs to be carefully calibrated. You won’t get accurate results with an uncalibrated unit. The mic could do time alignment, but not frequency work. Look at the frequency response of even a fairly good mic, and it’s all over the place. Not to mention that a proper test mic is not the same animal as a recirding or PA mic in the first place.
Another empty article from Mr Sherwin. Do you just type what they tell you to, or what?