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Shoot-out: $15 vs. $110 TV Wall Mount
We look at some of the similarities and differences while mounting a very inexpensive mount from Monoprice and mounting a more common-priced product from Monster.
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April 08, 2010 | by Stephen Hopkins

In a recent article I mentioned I’m mounting a budget 32-inch LCD display in my sons’ bedroom. They’re only 7-months-old and their viewing habits tend heavily toward Handy Manny and The Imagination Movers, so a larger 1080p model wasn’t really a priority. Given the low cost of the display itself, it was tough to justify spending all that much on a mount to hang it. At the same time, though, I figured I would see what you get with your average big-box store mount vs. something dirt-cheap from an online retailer. 

Monoprice Ultra-Slim Tilt Mount 5915 - $14.96 + SH

I’ve been buying inexpensive A/V accessories from Monoprice for several years with very few issues, so they were my first stop in shopping for a cheap mount. I settled on a $15 model claiming to be “Ultra-Slim” with a basic tilt mechanism. It’s a rail-based system with wall-plate capable of holding displays from 23” - 37” up to 165 pounds, both of which easily cover my display.  While not a flush mount, it provides a narrow 1.81” offset from wall to TV. When it arrived, I was surprised to find packaging pretty enough to sit on the shelf of any big-box store. Usually, this kind of Internet mail-order item comes in an nondescript brown box. As I opened the packaging I was greeted with a single half-sheet of mounting directions, a bag of mixed mounting hardware, and the mount pieces themselves. 

The mount itself feels fairly robust, made of powder-coated steel with smooth edges. The tilt mechanism is a simple pivot of the top hanging hooks and offers roughly 10 degrees of tilt. While the main build quality of the mount feels adequate, there are some minor nitpicks I noticed right away. The supplied bubble level, mounted right in the middle of the wall plate, had guide lines roughly twice as wide as the bubble itself, making the level nearly impossible to make good use of.  Also, all of the mounting hardware was tossed into a single clear plastic bag, while most products sold with this type of hardware these days have hardware segregated into individual labeled packaging. The hardware included lag bolts, plastic drywall anchors, fine thread mounting bolts, and teflon spacers. 

In practice, there was nothing unusual about or tricky about hanging the mount. Since I’d already lost faith in the included bubble level, I ended up using a free level app on my iPod touch (since I’d have to walk all the way down to the garage to get my torpedo level). I caught one stud with the included lag bolts, and used Moen SmartMounts for the other side, along with their included hardware.  Cable pass-through holes lined right up with where I planned on placing an Arlington TV Box to provide power and video cabling. Mounting the rails to the TV took a bit of trial-and-error to find the appropriate length hardware, but the single-bag hardware organization only added a couple of minutes to the process. After adjusting the tilt of the hanging hooks to somewhere in the middle of their range (no guide markers), I was able to lift the display directly on to the wall plate with ease. 

Regardless of a handful of minor nitpicks, the $15 Monoprice mount proved to be everything I needed it to be. I would have preferred a more accurate bubble level and more robust drywall anchors be included, but both were easily overcome by my iPhone and an inexpensive third-party anchor system. 

Monster SmartView Tilt Mount FS-M300-MT - $110 + Tax

When I decided to compare a low-price mount to something more common, I decided the comparison should include what your average consumer might walk out of a big-box retailer with along side their new shinny LCD display. I hoofed it up to my local Fry’s Electronics and, after a short comparison, left with the Monster SmartView Tilt Mount for $110 + tax.  It’s comparable in size and general design (plate + rails) as the Monoprice mount, but silver in color with a slightly different tilt mechanism. Weight capacity is listed at 100 pounds and mounted depth is 2.2” off-the-wall. The Monster mount does best the Monoprice mount in tilt angle, capable of an impressive 20 degree downward tilt. This is mainly thanks to its lower pivot-point. The Monster mount also allows for easy vertical movement of the display, up to 3”, without re-mounting. 

The Monster mount’s hardware package was similar to that of the Monoprice, including lag bolts, plastic anchors, and an assortment of fine-thread bolts. The arrangement, however, was a much more user-friendly method with each hardware type presorted and packaged individually. Mounting the rails to the display was straightforward, with the appropriate hardware present in the kit. Directions were more detailed, with a four-page packet included, though roughly half of those pages were warnings and legal jargon. 

With a larger wall plate, the Monster mount did offer more clearance for possible wire management placement concerns. There was no included level, either mounted or packed in, so there is some expectation of what tools a homeowner might have on-hand. I used the same arrangement for mounting the wall-plate, catching one stud with lag bolts and the Moen SecureMount toggles for the other. Hanging the display, though, was much more difficult due to hanging hooks being present at both top and bottom to accommodate the vertical height adjustments. This is in contrast to the single set of hanging hooks with set screws at the bottom of the Monoprice mount.

While both mounts were sturdy and well built, I did find the Monoprice mount a bit easier to hang without the aid of a second set of hands. That said, the included bubble-level and its wide tolerance range could easily lead to a skewed mount and an unhappy consumer. There was also a bit more play in the connection points of the Monoprice mount, but nothing that was present once the entire system came together and tightened down. 

Had I paid more for my display at a big-box retailer, and walked out with the Monster mount along with it, I would not feel that I’d overpaid. However, knowing just what I can get for just $15 from a trusted online retailer, it’s hard to recommend anyone pay an order of magnitude more for a basic mount. Other than the issue with the level and possibly the packaging of the hardware, I could easily see this Monoprice mount selling for the same $100 price point under a different brand name at a retail store. 



Stephen Hopkins is chief technology editor for EH Publishing. He writes product reviews, features, and focuses heavily on 3D TV, iPhone and iPad apps, and digital content.



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Comments (29) Most recent displayed first.
Posted by Nerrin Maelly  on  04/18/10  at  02:16 AM

I agree.  That mount could cost you 3k by the time it is all said and done.  I will never buy from Monoprice again after they allowed my Credit Card info to be stolen.  They should charge a little more for their mounts so thy can afford some security!

Posted by James Laremient  on  04/17/10  at  02:19 PM

I would rather pay a few extra bucks and not have all my credit card information stolen and my credit cards racked up!  Cheap products and Cheap Security!

Posted by INFINTE HOME AND BUSINESS SOLUTIONS  on  04/16/10  at  11:10 PM

I will say this Monoprice makes a good product and Very great Margin earners, But I had a problem with my information getting stolen from them. Someone got my business credit card and charge some money on it. We got it back and then we found out that monoprice serer got hit. THe sent me this BS letter and say they fixed the problem come back and shop with us. I WAS at the highest of there discounts spending 1200 or more a month on ther products, selling the same mounts for 75 dollars makeing a killing on profit. Now I am with partsexpresss, And Snap A/V.

Posted by JMagee  on  04/16/10  at  09:13 PM

My Monoprice $15 mount (for a 50” plasma) DOES have a latch.  No concerns of quality.  I bet it’s going to last longer than the TV.  Clearly, the big box stores which compete on lowest advertised TV price—sometimes at cost just to get you in the door—make their profit on the accessories and the warranties.  Don’t buy either.

Posted by jbrown  on  04/15/10  at  08:06 PM

@ubs8rr & Todd A ... are you kidding me? Seriously? There are plenty of issues that can be caused by crappy cables, and no it is not as simple as they either work or they don’t. That in itself is proof that you have no clue what you are talking about and little or no experience actually installing these systems (other than maybe the one in your house).

1. HDCP issues - these are awesome, sometimes you’ll turn your system on and some sources just won’t work (the ones with HDCP, such as a Blu-ray player or Apple TV) but other sources will work (the ones WITHOUT HDCP, like DirecTV receivers). That usually means you have ground loop issues that interfere with the consistency of the HDCP handshake. But sometimes it’s just a crappy switcher.

2. Ever seen little blue, green, or white sparkles on your screen? This means you have data transmission issues on your TMDS Data channels. So you have enough data to make a picture, but not enough to make a perfect picture. This was snow in the olden days. Now it’s sparkles. The difference is that before the sparkles become abundant enough to be annoying, the picture will usually drop out completely. Good cables = no sparkles.

3. Error correction - Just like a CD can still play even with a big scratch, your TV can still show a picture even if all of the data doesn’t make it. Do you think your CD player magically knows what was recorded where the scratch is? No, instead it just blends, or omits the data, but keeps playing. Your TV does the same thing, so you can wind up with a bad picture (splotches, block artifacts, etc.) and some people may not even notice.

You guys really are clueless. Sending 1080i 8-bit video from your satellite or cable box requires about 2.2Gbps. That’s less than 1/4 of the data of a 1080p Blu-ray with Dolby True HD audio and that’s only if the player doesn’t up-convert it to 12 or 16-bit color, at which point you will be right at the 10Gbps maximum that HDMI can deliver. (and no, your lame up-converting DVD player will not exceed 3.5Gbps) The point is, crappy cables have fewer problems when you are only transmitting low data rates. But if you have high-quality video sources, or plan to in the future, you’ll quickly realize that there IS a difference, and anyone who thinks “digital is digital” is just plain wrong.

I am an ISF-certified calibrator and have installed and calibrated everything from an Epson ProCinema 9100 ($2,499) to a Meridian 810 Reference ($200,000+) and several JVC, Sony, Runco, and Digital Projection models in between. I have seen what works and what doesn’t. There is a reason Monoprice doesn’t make an HDMI 1.3a-rated cable any longer than 25-feet. They can’t. Everything longer than that is only rated to 165MHz (4.9Gbps), which is less than half of what HDMI 1.3 and 1.4 are capable of - 340MHz (10.2Gbps).

At this point, I am done here. A friend once told me, never argue with an idiot on the Internet, bystanders can’t tell who’s who.

So if any of you would like to find out how much you don’t know, please feel free to call or visit my office. Audio Advisors/Ask The Advisors has been in business for 28 years and I have been with them for more than half of that time. Our company is one of the most respected and innovative CI companies in the industry. I’d be happy to shed some light on your world.

Jason Brown
http://www.asktheadvisors.com


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