Q&A with Steven Hill of Straight Wire

Is there really a direction to speaker wire? And why is HDMI cable so expensive? These are some of the questions we posed to Straight Wire owner Steven Hill.

A basic knowledge of wiring and cabling connections can still leave you scratching your head when it comes to figuring out what your entertainment system needs or deserves. Steven Hill of manufacturer Straight Wire answers some questions we had on the topic of connections.

Is there really a direction to speaker wire? If so, then why and how? 
Some companies claim that they draw the copper in the same direction for each pull and have grain-optimized structures and keep track of it. Likewise for long or mono crystals, claims that have better performance based upon directionality.

Most speaker cables have a slight “candy-cane” twist between internal conductors—especially multi-conductor helical designs with 4, 6 or 8 conductors. With these designs, there is a slight advantage based upon the “right hand grip rule” of magnetic fields and signal flow. Place the palm of your right hand in front of you. If the twist of the internal conductors goes from palm to fingertips (clockwise), then the direction the thumb is pointing (up or forward) has a slight electrical advantage.

In the case of a shielded speaker cable with the shield tied to the negative at one end, it is important to know the best place to connect that end—usually to the amp and not the speaker.

Does only good wire have a direction?
As noted above, there are a few instances where directionality may be considered. For high-level systems, just like a high-performance car, all aspects should be considered and the system should be tuned. The only substantive aspects noted above include right hand rule, grain-optimized direction, and shielded speaker cables.

Many customers want to be told what direction to run the cable for peace of mind, even if there is little substantive basis. Most cable companies print arrows or suggest following the direction of print so the end user is satisfied.

What does someone look for when shopping for speaker wire?
Uniform tight jacket, internal fillers or twist of internal conductors that doesn’t allow gaps or variation. Copper that doesn’t show tinges of green or black indicating corrosion.

For install cables, a UL rating to go in the walls that meets the code for the location—CL2, CL3, CM, Riser or Plenum. Most companies use basic grade PVC and add a flame retardant to the jacket. It meets the code but limits performance for longer runs. Be careful and inquire if the jackets have non-leaching plasticizers. Over time some cheaper cables will dry out and crack, especially in environments with extreme temperature and moisture fluctuations.

Better speaker cables use higher-quality insulation (polypropylene) and OFC (99.95% pure) conductors. The copper is free from other trace elements as well as oxygen. Standard cables use ETP (Electrolytic tough pitch grade copper that is 99.5% pure.

A common misconception is that finely stranded conductors (xxx strands) are better than those with only 19-41 strands (more common). While the finely stranded cable may be more flexible, odds are that those strands may have more surface corrosion to begin with due to the handling and extrusion process employed. Tighter pressure extrusions vs. tubular extrusions leave less space for copper oxide to form. While some may argue that the greater surface area of many fine strands gives better high frequencies, the greater surface area is subject to corrosion in the drawing, stranding and extrusion processes.

What about higher-performance wire?
You need low resistance (more conductor volume) as the power and length increase. It costs very little extra to use 14 or 12 AWG per polarity for long runs. AWG is American Wire Gauge; the lower the number, the larger the wire.

Most higher-end speaker cables use multiple conductors instead of two parallel groups. Two parallel conductors act as large magnets that cancel a portion of the signal in the middle, especially over long runs. By adding a twist and making the magnets smaller—pos, neg, pos, neg (in a four-conductor design)—the electromagnetic cancellation is less. Most two conductor cables with a twist require internal fillers to keep the outer jacket round and make sure the internals don’t vary in spacing or have air gaps.

Many higher end speaker cables use many conductor groups in advanced designs that have been engineered and tested on both standard and high end components. It is worthwhile for the consumer to evaluate (audition) such cables in their system. Most home theater and 2 channel specialists are happy to offer this service. Most established high-end cable manufacturers will gladly assist consumers if their dealer or integrator is unwilling to do so.

How do you figure out how much to spend on wire and cables? If you purchase a $2,000 LCD TV, moderate components and speakers how much should you spend on the wire and cables?
Depends on lengths needed and number of sources but assume 6 to 12 percent of what you spent on the A/V. We urge consumers to keep their components close to the L,C,R speakers if possible since these carry the most information. If they have to make long speaker cables runs, it’s better to do so for the surround channels.

How about a very high-end system?
Assuming average lengths, 8 to 14 percent. Please note that many consumers spend even more after auditioning premium cables and finding the synergy (and overall benefits of the system) still has good value. Some people don’t think of putting really good tires on a used car and are amazed by the benefits once they drive it.

One of the great benefits of specialty retailers or quality integrators is that they are knowledgeable about high-end cables, power conditioning, speaker placement, room treatments, etc. and can suggest and offer them to clients who want to get the most from their system. Many consumers are skeptical and feel these items are sold just to make extra profit. But there is a sizeable group of consumers who have tried these items in their system and are amazed at the improvements.

If someone thinks they couldn’t hear or see the difference what would you say?
Seeing the difference is obvious—look for color bleed, sharp edges, black levels. All video systems are tuned circuits—DVD, A/V receiver and monitor all matter—together with cables and power conditioning. Groups like ISF (Imaging Science Foundation) and Video Essentials sell test discs they can use to test the system. Also consider: What type of lighting is in the room, do they want to watch during the day with high ambient light in the room?

For hearing differences, it may be because of a terrible room environment. Resonance from drywall or windows may hurt the presentations. Sometimes consumers hear a difference but don’t like it. Some cables may give more focus and pinpoint detail at the expense of warmth, musicality and soundstage. The salesperson or installer has to find what they like and give it to them. Dynamic impact, strong mid bass, less high frequency, etc. Cables are like spices while the other components are like meat and potatoes—people prefer different spices and should take the time to get what they enjoy.

Many people don’t trust their ears. They use their eyes critically every day, and they trust their eyes. Many were told they don’t have golden ears and hesitate or refrain from exploring all the enjoyment and excitement they can get from good audio. The brain has just as many receptors for audio as video—they have to be used and developed.

They have to listen to various great systems and determine what matters most. Subtle details, liquidity and smooth rounded music vs. dynamic, tight, sharp presentations. Types of music, volume levels, length of listening vs. typical theater issues like center focus, soundstage size matching the visual information, dynamic range that has impact but won’t wake the neighbors!
What are some differences between the levels of wire?
Better materials, more of it, advanced designs, specific applications and more. Is the level of cable commensurate with the system? Not based on price, but upon the client’s desires and equipment/room parameters. Also, subwoofer issues of placement, crossover frequency, gain.

Speaker cable has more to go wrong with it than interconnect. It delivers signal and power, while interconnects just carry signal. So given the option, take short speaker cables and longer interconnects rather than vice versa.

What about between the different levels of cable?
The same issues as above.

What do the different gauges mean and why choose one over another?
AWG (American Wire Gauge) reflects the square inches or mm squared of each conductor. When you double the area, the AWG goes down by a number of 3(two 16 AWG conductors equals a 13 AWG, two 14 AWG conductors equals 11 AWG and so on). Most two-channel systems have the speakers close to the amp or receiver –- 8 to 15 feet—while many home theater systems have speaker cables as long as 50 feet. CEDIA (Custom Electronic Design and Installation Association) and THX have charts that have suggested minimum AWG based upon length of each run, but you must also consider how much power you’re using.

For in-wall speakers, does it make sense to save $.25 per foot and get a basic 2 conductor 16 AWG only to find it cannot effectively handle the power from a 60-watt-per-channel amp with a length over 80 feet? Do you want to go back in the walls and try to change the speaker cable? What if you upgrade your amp after a few years and the wire cannot handle the extra power?!

First issue is length, next speaker efficiency, third is power, fourth is length of listening time (the wire can get hot if the wire is too small). A small filet will always be better than a huge piece of cheap meat. A basic 12 gauge twin lead made with basic copper and low-grade PVC is usually inferior to the 4 conductor twisted 16 gauge (13 AWG overall). Even though the 12 gauge is bigger, losses occur due to electromagnetic cancellations of musical information.

Look at the factors you should consider for tires: How fast will you go? What is the vehicle weight? Will it run off road? What is the suspension? All season, winter or summer? Are you concerned with performance more than useful life?

Consider the factors in choosing speaker cable:
1. Length of run (many today are over 100 feet)
2. Speaker Efficiency (84 - 91dB-1watt/1 meter)
3. Power - big difference running a 20 watt per channel amp from the flea market vs. a 100-watt-per-channel Krell
4. Listening time – do you need for all night parties or a few songs before dinner

Why is a single HDMI cable so flippin’ expensive?
That’s a loaded question, but I’ll try ...

The cable has four twisted, 100-ohm pairs, five single wires, two shields and must be carefully made with little variation for consistent performance.
Add to that a 19 pin connector with 17 connections at each end.

When the great people got together to create the HDMI concept, they had great intentions. But six versions in three years shows that maybe the one-wire-solves-everything concept was not realistic for the broad range of applications needed to satisfy A/V enthusiasts.

You can get a burger at AM/PM for $.89 that has a half life of three years and comes with a condiment-resistant coating of who knows what type of oil/preservatives and you can get one for $40 at SSSS Grill made of kobe beef with a seven grain sourdough fresh roll and truffle oil as an option. Both fill your stomach. You can get a quartz watch at Wal-Mart for $7.99 or get a Patek Phillipe watch for $79,000. Both tell accurate time.

You can get an HDMI cable for $10 with 30 gauge copper of some variety or a similar length for $250 with silver plated 22 gauge conductors, titanium plug cap and decorative mesh to match your carpet. The established cable manufacturers and smart retailers and integrators do not want consumers calling with cable problems.

Briefly, what is the technology behind the wire?
Starting from a USB premise, they were making assumptions of a short distance (12 to 16 feet) plug-and-play cable. They wanted to have a small plug and didn’t think about making it locking like DB 9, 15, 25 or DVI. HDMI handles digital audio, video, control and allows communication between components. It also has a 5-volt power aspect that is very useful.

There are many versions of HDMI, are there versions of the cable as well?Not too many. Different internal sizes, various plated or bare copper, and different ratings such as CL for in-wall use.

What is shielding?
A foil, braid or spiraled group of conductors over a group of wires that can attract or trap external EMI (noise) and hopefully dispose of it so as not to harm or interfere with the signal going through the wire. In some designs, the shield is also made to prevent portions of the internal signal to escape and interfere with other components or wires. Copper, aluminum and other materials are most common.

When running wire, do I need to keep speaker wires away from power cords? Why?
It’s more important to keep low-level cables –- audio and video interconnects—away from power cords. Speaker cables carry enough power that the electromagnetic fields are sufficient to not get A/C noise.

How about data wire?
Referring to unshielded CAT5e, keep it away from power lines, transformers for low voltage lighting. Most audio and video interconnects, analog and digital are shielded effectively from high frequencies. However, they can be susceptible to strong 60Hz (AC) interference when the power cords are unshielded and within 6 inches and running parallel.
Can I wrap my speaker wire together with my video wire?
Usually not suggested –- but it should not be a big problem –- especially if you have a multiconductor (4 or more) speaker cable with conductors alternating +, -, +, -. If you have a large (12AWG) twin lead parallel speaker wire, it produces more EMI (electromagnetic interference).

Got three connection or other tips?
1. Make sure your integrator is using a quality of cables that matches your system. Many of them are using very low quality cables but spend a lot of time dressing and tying them to look pretty and charging you for their time. Is that like giving a shampoo and haircut to a pig, putting a tuxedo on a monkey, or coming up with gourmet recipes for spam?

2. Don’t skimp on any cable that’s put in the wall. Once the finishing work is done, you will not be able to change it. Make sure they are putting in the wall what you asked and paid for. It is unfortunate that some integrators use inferior products in the wall-to-wall plates and run 5 to 8 feet of something good on the outside. If the integrator or salesman doesn’t suggest upgrade options, ask for them. You don’t have to buy it, just consider them.

3. Most Cable TV, Dish, DirecTV and building maintenance guys hook up your system just to work with basic composite video and the cheapest cables they can find. We find many high-def TVs hooked up with S-Video (a great technological leap back in 1990) and speaker wire that resembles angel hair pasta—couldn’t even use for linguini!